Flesh & Buns

What on earth is Flesh & Buns? 

 

A difficult question.  They describe themselves as:

 

"…the new Izakaya restaurant from Bone Daddies"

 

Not being, clearly, down enough with the kids to understand what izakaya is, I Googled it.  The resulting definition comes from that fountain of all knowledge, Wikipedia:

 

"An izakaya (居酒屋) is a type of Japanese drinking establishment which also serves food to accompany the drinks. They are casual places for after-work drinking."

 

I'm still no closer to the truth.  What's more, even having been there, I can’t give you a precise answer.

 

One thing I do know about Flesh & Buns is that it is achingly trendy.  The place, a converted wine cellar (or somesuch) located under the Donmar was relatively quiet when we got there – a civilised 8 o'clock – but absolutely heaving by the time we left, a couple of hours later.  It's low lit, loud music, even louder chatter, and long, room-length tables stretching from a cocktail bar at the front to a semi-open plan kitchen at the back.  There are a few smaller tables, which one can book for parties of six or so, dotted around the periphery, but the main action seems to take place on the long, high tables.

 

GrubsterGirl and I kicked off proceedings, in our usual way, with a couple of rounds of cocktails.

 

To start, she had a Lychee and Pomegranate Martini, which was lovely, sweet and tasted of its signature components.  My Shiso and Pink Peppercorn Julep was nice enough as a drink – I enjoy a julep, as it happens, so can't really complain – but tasted of neither shiso (a Japanese herb, and that big leaf sticking out the top of the picture) nor pink peppercorns, which was a touch disappointing.

 

Never ones to leave a job half done, we went in for a second round.

 

 

GrubsterGirl had the Peach Blossom Sour and I had the Nikka Cherry Sour.  Both were yummy, so no complaints there. 

 

Later on, however, GrubsterGirl also had a Frozen Yuzu Margarita (to make up for a screw up of the order).  Now, I've had to check what yuzu is (it turns out that it's a small, oriental citrus fruit used heavily in Japanese and Korean cuisine – who knew?), but it tasted to me just like a normal, frozen margarita.  Which is a bit of a shame.  And it wasn't helped, I don’t think, by having been squeezed out of a bloody great big ice churner.

 

Food-wise, they offer a batch of starters, some hot, some cold, and then a list of 'flesh and buns'.  These are standard main dishes, each accompanied by dim sum steamed buns and some salad.
 

We started with the mixed sashimi and tuna tataki, sharing both.  Really top notch dishes, I loved both.  The sashimi was as fresh as it needs to be, and offered a nice mix. 

 

 

The tuna, however, was first class.  Really nicely put together, well charred on the outside, and accompanied by a flavoursome sauce that avoided just being soy and spice.

 

 

 

The main courses started well.  The flat iron steak with BBQ sauce, accompanied by pickled shimeji was divine, and sat nicely in their little buns.

 

 

GrubsterGirl chose the crispy duck leg with sour plum sauce, accompanied by turnip pickle.  This was slightly disappointing.  It felt like a dish without much effort: simply roasted duck leg, allowed to speak for itself rather than being seasoned, spiced and flavoured.

 

 

 

So all good so far? 

 

Well, kind of.  The food was good, the drinks decent, but the service was shocking.  Slow and often wrong.  Things failed to arrive at once, meaning cold buns being eaten with hot flesh – less than ideal.  I wondered at one stage if the staff struggled to hear in the noise, but one way or another it was a little poor. 

 

It wasn't cheap, either: the bill came to £90 for two people (after they had taken off the things we weren't supposed to be charged for…) without pudding.

 

However, my real gripe with Flesh & Buns is how tight they are with the buns.  Because you get two.  And that is it – no matter how many dishes you order.  Which means that you simply have to order more, and they know that – so any dish marked as £15 is actually £17.50 because you have to factor in ordering more buns.  Given that the cost of producing those little suckers must be minute, that sort of attitude just feels a little cheap.  Which is a shame, because otherwise I reckon I'd have liked the place.

 - GrubsterBoy -

Al-Desko Dining: Pilpel

Al-desko dining: Reviews of the busy city worker's lunchtime treats.  Making sure that working lunches are more than just a supermarket value combo.

Directly opposite the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, just off Fleet Street, there used to be a little sandwich shop.  You know the kind, run-of-the-mill City place with steel dishes containing mounds of egg mayonnaise and tuna sweetcorn and coronation chicken, filling baps and baguettes as fast as the City boys could order them.  I'm not judging especially – I never went there – but I can't say I noticed it had closed down.

I did, however, notice what sprung up in its place.  Pilpel have been operating quite successfully since 2009, with three branches elsewhere in the City, dolling out prodigious great quantities of grape-shot sized falafel to the monied masses in St Pauls and Spitalfields.  The secret of their success?  The food's bloody marvellous.

Let's start with the falafel.  Eight hefty chunks in each bowl – you can buy it by bowl or pitta (the bowl, with its accompanying salad mountain is by far the better bet, both in terms of meal and value for money).  It's crispy on the outside, and soft, moist and warm on the inside.  I'm no great falafel-expert, but this tastes good to me.  This tastes like what I think falafel should taste like.  So often it's dry, powdery, flavourless fried mush.  Here it feels carefully crafted, assembled, served.  Fantastic.

 

Then there's the salad, and I think this does deserve a little bit of time.  Because in each bowl you get: cucumber, tomato, white cabbage, red cabbage, lettuce, marinated chickpeas, gherkins and pickled chillies.  Then, depending on what option you go for, there's other stuff.  We went for the Mediterranean Falafel Meal and were rewarded humus, tabbouleh and fried aubergines (the latter or which were so wrong and yet so very, very right).  All of it's top quality, and tastes amazing.

 

Then, as if you don't have enough on your plate already, the whole thing gets drowned in lashings of tahini and chilli sauce.  There's two options of chilli sauce – green and red.  Green's hotter, but has a far more interesting flavour. 

 

Oh, yeah, you also get a pitta bread with it all.  FFS.

 

 

Price-wise, it aint cheap – but good, fresh food seldom is and this is the City, isn’t it?  £5.25 for the meal, which sounds on the cheap stuff, but honestly I can’t think of a place nearby where I get quite as much food for my money.  On that note, it's not the best desk lunch I can imagine for two very good reasons: (a) it's not a tidy meal to eat; and (b) you're going to want a siesta afterwards – by which I mean a nap of several hours to digest it all.  Still, totally worth it. 

 

 -GrubsterBoy –

 

PS: If you're passing by and you see a dude hanging outside Pilpel handing out samples, do not just walk on by.  Grab a falafel ball, give it a chilli and tahini dunk, and grub up.

Great British Beer Festival

Last night some friends and I hit the Great British Beer Festival at London Olympia.

I heartily recommend it.  Especially if you like beer – by which I mean the flat, cloudy brown stuff, not the cheap, fizzy yellow stuff.  Basically, £10 gets you entry to a massive big room full of – quite literally – thousands of different beers to try.

I'm not going to list out each and every beer – apart from anything else, I can't remember them all.  In total, I must have tried about a dozen and tasted many more.  At the entrance you're asked to buy a glass for £3, which you can either give back (for your money back) or keep.  The glasses are marked: pint, half pint, one-third pint.  I strongly recommend buying thirds only – a friend tried halves before realising, very early on, the error of his ways.  After all, you don’t want to limit yourself to the different varieties you can try!

Having said I'm not going to list them out, here are a few good beers to look out for: the cherry lager and the Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Marzen, on the German stall.  The Rauchbier is particularly interesting, given how it's a heavily smoked beer that smells like the inside of Bodeans and tastes of BBQ ribs.  Watch out though: it comes in at 8%.  The Barum EPA from Devon is a very refreshing drop, as Dancing Duck's DCUK beer, from Derbyshire.  There are also amazing ciders and perrys on sale as well, if that's your kind of thing.  I had a glass of Severnsider, from Gloucestershire, that was at the sweetest end of the range – almost too much so, a little like drinking apple Ribena...

But the star of the show, the absolute humdinger of a beer, was this one.  The Starr Hill Brewing Co.'s Bourbon Barrel Cryptic Imperial Stout.  Hailing from Crozet, Virginia (their address is the fantastically named "Three Notched Road"), this epic brew is aged for two years in old bourbon barrels – a process that adds 3% ABV to the brew, bringing it up to a teeth-sucking 10%.  At that strength, you're not going to want to drink it by the pint – not that you could at the festival, they only serve it by the third – but that's no problem because it's so rich and beefy that you wouldn’t want to.  It's treacly, caramelly flavours are perfectly matched by the a smooth, thick consistency.  I think I'm in love.

 

American craft beers are undergoing a real renaissance at the moment – and rightly so, if this drop's anything to judge them by.  Tragically, all the Googling in the world has left me unable to find this particular brew in the UK, but if anyone knows of it, please let me know!

Sure, there's an eclectic mix of people, shall we say, ranging from the city boys with their reluctant girlfriends (who look ever so slightly lost and confused) to the beard-and-cardigan-and-socks-with-sandals brigade, who are deadly serious about this thing.  But it's still a great event – a perfect night out with the boys. 

Also, BBC News tells a sad tale this morning.  In some parts of the country pubs are closing at a rate of 22% per year, which is just frightening.  Drinking more beer is apparently the thing to do – CAMRA actually says so – so you should see visiting the Great British Beer Festival as your patriotic duty. 

 - GrubsterBoy -

Maraschino Cherries

Controversially, I rather enjoy a maraschino cherry with an Old Fashioned.  Plenty of people object, and I understand that – I can't imagine there's anything particularly traditional about the provision of a piece of candied fruit in a drink like that (to the extent that there is anything traditional at all to an Old Fashioned…).  But there's something incredibly retro, something that makes you actually feel like Don Draper with a kitsch cocktail cherry floating in your manly bourbon.  Or so I feel.

The problem is that the maraschino cherries on the market are, frankly, disgusting.  They get even more disgusting if you ever find out what goes into making them.

So I wanted to have a go at making some of my own.

First step was to visit Maynards Pick Your Own Fruit Farm in East Sussex.  The recipe calls for fresh morello cherries, which are an absolute pain to get hold of.  I think they're probably essential - despite various peeps on t'internet saying you can make these puppies with any old cherries, I can't help thinking that, what with all the sugar and the sweetness of the liqueuer, you're going to want something to balance it out, and sour morello cherries are probably a good start.  Maynards had some so we went a-pickin'.  Also, the folks there are lovely, the fruit is great value and there's something wonderful about hand-picking the fruit that you're going to eat. 

Next was to find a recipe.  This one came from Cupcake Project.  I've translated the recipe from US measures to rough English measures. 

500g Morello Cherries

100g Granulated White Sugar
125ml Water
Cinnamon Stick
Nutmeg for Grating
1tsp Vanilla Essence
250ml Maraschino Liqueur (I've used Luxardo, largely because it's the only one I could find at very short notice. I found it in Grape Sense next to Chalk Farm Tube, which is awesome.  Gerry's in Soho stocks a wider range.)

750ml Kilner Jar (or similar) which has been sterilised

First, pit all of your cherries.  Buy a cherry pitter for this, there is really no other way.  Also, for the love of God, wear an apron.  These little blighters are squirters.  As you can see.

Next, heat the water and sugar together in medium pan.  Remember that you're gonna have to get all your cherries in here too, so make sure it'll fit them all.  Once the sugar has dissolved thoroughly, add the cinnamon stick and vanilla essence and grate in a little nutmeg.  The bring it to the boil. 

At this point you're going to be fretting that there won’t be enough liquid to cook the cherries in.  Don't fret so, it'll all be good.  Because now you're going to add the cherries and be amazed that the amount of liquid is actually about right.  See?

Simmer those cherries for five minutes.  Actually, if I did this again, I'm not sure I would.  I used very ripe cherries, and my end product is a little… soft for my liking.  So next time I think I'll just add them to the pot and then immediately turn the heat off at this stage.

Whatever you do, you need to turn the heat off once you've done it.  Once it's cooled a smidgen, add your maraschino liqueur.  Once the whole mix has cooled a little, plonk it in the jar.  I sterilised mine by washing it thoroughly then rinsing with boiling water and placing, upside down, in an oven at 150°C for 15-20 minutes.  Hope that works.

Once all that's done, stop taking artsy photos, seal it up and put it in the fridge for a few days.  Then mix an Old Fashioned / Manhattan / any other cocktail, and voila. 

Oh, also, I had some surplus syrup left.  I also had a few fingers of bourbon left that I had intended to save for experiments involving making bacon infused bourbon, until I realised that this was a terrible idea.  So I mixed the spare syrup and the bourbon together, and one day soon I'm going to attempt to recreate the fantastic Cherry Manhattan then make at Lost Society.  I'll let you know how it goes.

 - GrubsterBoy -

The Bar at the Gilbert Scott

The whole Mad Men, 1950s / 1960s New York plush thing has pretty much been done to death already.  But that's not to say that bars aren’t still going to try it, nor is it to say that they aren't (from time to time) going to get it bang on.  The bar at the Gilbert Scott is one of those.

GrubsterGirl and I had eaten brunch in the restaurant already – and sampled the bar's creations as well – but we were there strictly on a reconnaissance, so it made sense to hit the bar and see what they were made of. 

Proceedings began with the Guilia's Julep, a tempting mix of Woodford Reserve bourbon, mint, lime, Fernet Branca, Cynar, cucumber, sage and ginger.  Essentially, an ultra-pimped version of the classic mint julep.  I'm a massive fan of bourbon (and the julep, for that matter) so it was a bit of a no-brainer.  What, quite simply, could there possibly be not to like?

Well, quite a lot, as it turned out.  Sadly, this is one of those drinks that shoots for the moon and not so much ends up in the stars as fizzles out and goes phutt.  There's simply too much in there, too many flavours, which leaves your taste buds a complete mess by the time you're done. This is pretty much their signature drink, but it probably shouldn’t be: I wouldn’t go telling too many people about this if I owned the bar.

GrubsterGirl chose more wisely with her opening salvo, going for a Rhubarb and Ginger Sour with tequila – a choice given to the consumer, the alternative being vodka.  This was an absolutely fantastic little mix; all the right flavours in the right places, very satisfying indeed.

Round 2: For me, an Amber Embers – Campfire infused scotch, apricot and vermouth.  Yes, another whiskey cocktail, what can I say.

Suddenly, The Gilbert Scott had raised its game.  This was magnificent, full of all the smoke, salt, thump and power it promised.  Sure, it's not much to look at - especially considering the other efforts made on the presentation front - but I had to physically restrain myself from gulping.

GrubsterGirl's second choice was the Hibiscus and Chamomile Caipirinha. 

Cachaça (the core ingredient of any Caipirinha) has a strong, distinctive flavour which needs some punchy flavours to be heard above the noise, so I worried that hibiscus and chamomile might be lost.  I needn't have been worried about the hibiscus, which shone through, but I was slightly less impressed by the chamomile – by which I mean, where was it?  When matched to GG's first cup, this one was a bit off the mark.

The bar itself is opulent, in that mid-Century New York way that Campbell Apartments is.  We were there during the day, but by night I can imagine it's quite fantastic.  In fact, the only part I wouldn’t venture into is the garden – which is a shame, but it's situated right on the main road, so traffic just pours by.

And the damage?  Hefty.  Four drinks and semi-mandatory service set us back over £60, which is more than you want, really.  We started going to nice bars after a drink at the Savoy's American bar, which charges roughly £15 a drink – which is more expensive, but the drinks are flawless.  More in their league (and price range), and style, are Hawksmoor's many bars.  But then, their drinks are also pretty damn flawless.

Oh, one other thing.  Whilst we there there, sat up at the bar, the barman brought out a bag of greengages he'd sourced from some local market and set about inventing a new drink - quite unselfconsciously.  Now, I imagine that that's part of your trade, as a cocktail barman, but there's something magical about watching the creation and experimentation process, and it's great - and reassuring - to see someone at work who takes their job seriously enough to be doing that.

 - GrubsterBoy -

Brunch at the Gilbert Scott

I was slightly saddened, some years ago, when it was announced that the Eurostar would no longer be leaving from Waterloo, but would instead depart from a much-pimped out St Pancras; the little irony of the train to France leaving from a station named after Britain's greatest military victory over said country always tickled me, somewhat.

Nevertheless, the renovation has been spectacular, producing a first-class international station.  But, for me, the greatest achievement has been the conversion of the former railway offices into the (rather unimaginatively named) St. Pancras Renaissance London Hotel.  Formerly the Midland Grand Hotel, before its sixty-plus year stint as offices, this has got to be one of the most beautiful buildings in London.

It's also the home of Marcus Wareing's latest venture, The Gilbert Scott.  In search of a suitable birthday venue, GrubsterGirl and I headed down for a spot of brunch.

Proceedings were kicked off with a round of Bloody Maria's: all the usual Bloody Mary ingredients (an essential for brunch, I feel) with the innovative substitution of vodka for tequila, and lime taking the place of lemon.  Very tasty, and a guaranteed eye-opener.  Lots of people have an aversion to tequila, doubtless obtained through countless nightclub slammer experiences, which I think is often unfair.  Here, the addition of tequila really works – which is hardly surprising when you think that Mexican's often chase the stuff with sangrita: a medley of tomato, orange, lime and green chilli. 

A nice little pickled chilli adorned the glass, which was a bonus: the addition of an undertone of vinegar actually improved rather than detracted (as one might expect) from the experience.

Rather unimaginatively, we followed our drinks with eggs benedict, that finest of brunch grubs.  Rather disappointingly for the blog, we both had exactly the same – so sorry, this review at least is rather limited. 

But these were no ordinary eggs benedict.  No, these were crab eggs benedict.  Now, I'm a complete sucker for crab, so the die was kinda cast the moment I saw them on the menu – I couldn’t help myself.  But I did have reservations: crab is a delicate flavour, in many respects, and one that could be easily lost piled underneath rich hollandaise sauce.  Marcus (or his little sous chef) has clearly anticipated this, and supplied enough crab meat to keep one going (and tasting) all day. 

 

It was very good, no doubt about it.  Nice hollandaise, perfectly cooked egg, lots of rich, tasty white crab meat, warmed plates, the works.  Very nicely done.

But on the expensive side.  Pre-tip, and including a coffee each as well, out brekkie came out at £55.69.  Not too bad, given what we were eating, but not one to do every weekend.

 - GrubsterBoy -

In praise of Mr Whippy

Ever since I heard that pleasant jingle-jangle of the ice cream van on hot, lazy days in my childhood, there has always been a special place in my heart for Mr Whippy.  On a day like this, with record temperatures soaring, the 99 Flake deserves honouring.

It's just glorious.  Sure, it's no haut cuisine, no specialist gelato or Cornish cream.  It has no pretentions to be: it is a basic, down at heal, British summer treat.  In this day and age, every food blogger worth their salt will be prepared to admit that some days you want a Kobe beef burger with foie gras on, and others you just want a big dirty patty covered in American cheese.  We should all accept the same for this faithful, honest whipped ice.

On a related note, so many of the myths of this honest scoop are just that: myths.  They were not invented by Mrs Thatcher (thus giving rise to the perfectly valid question of what did she do for her country), nor were they named 'the 99 Flake' for their price, having been around a lot longer than anyone would dare charge 99p for them.

 - GrubsterBoy -